Here's some great advice from MoGolf (Glen) stripped from the CinciTDI Yahoo Group:

IMHO, it is a myth that aftermarket will always outlast originals. Brake pad wear varies by driving conditons (weather, terrain, traffic, driver driving style, etc.). My Golf is at 174346 miles on the original front pads and about 23K less than that on the rears. I do recommend using VW brake pads (suppliers are typically TRW (was Lucas), Pagid, and ATE). Their specifications seem to work well for the cars (engineered for quick stopping when necessary on the Autobahn).

The Passat front brakes are different than the brakes on the A4 platform cars. Cautions include (1) be sure to route the wear sensor wiring correctly (so make note of what it is before disassembly), (2) the sensor wiring comes out of its holder by lifting in up a bit and turning 90 degress, (3) do not let the outer pad adhere to the caliper before it is in the correct installation position, (4) the inner surface has an arrow that must point in the direction of the brake rotor rotation or noise will result, and (5) press the retaining spring for the outer pad under the brake carrier after inserting in the two holes, or the outer brake pad won't get properly adjusted resulting in increasing brake pedal travel.

I recommend Carquest DOT 4 brake fluid. It is the best buy that I've found for the right fluid. It also works quite well. A full flush will get at least 1/2 liter out per caliper, not just "when the color changes".

Bleeding the brakes on the A4 platform has the sequence of RR, LR, RF, LF for Mk 20 brake controllers (the round cylinder part of the ABS unit is vertical), and LF, RF, LR, RR for the Mk.  60 (round cylinder is horizontal). Mk 60 was introduced during the 2001 model year build (approximately cars built from 12/00 and after). It does not matter when in the sequenc you bleed the clutch. You might prefer to wait until the end when the reservoir is sure to contain only fresh fluid. When using a pressure bleeder, do not exceed 1 bar (about 14psi).

Bleeding the Passat requires that the pressure bleeder pressure must be at least 2 bar. The sequence is the old familiar RR, LR, RF, LF. If the system is opened up and air gets into it, then you may have to go through a more complex method that requires VAG-COM or equivalent to activate the ABS pump, and the assistance of another person to apply foot pressure to the pedal. This person will apply the brake pressure and hold, the bleed valve is opened unitl the pedal goes down to a stop, then close the valve, then slowly release the pedal. Repeat this 4 more times.

By now you should have the idea that one should not jump into doing a repair or maintenance on a car without having done the research first. Failure to do so can result in a broken or unsafe car. I haven't even mentioned the proper torque values for the bolts and pins.