How to replace a worn front wheel bearing:

(edited from a post from yahoo groups itsprez)
Based on my recent experience to remove the entire assembly you will want to first mark it in a way that you can put it back together with out requiring a re-alignment (i.e. wire brush or spray paint).
You will also need an 18mm, 19mm, a hex bit (forget the size but common around 10mm) to hold your tie rod end still while removing the nut. The book calls to replace the 30mm axle nut (dealer uses id for sizing which I believe is 22mm) as well as the 18mm on the tie rod end and lower ball joint as well as the 19mm that holds the housing around the shock absorber tube. I replaced mine all from the
dealer for about $12.

You will also need to loosen the lower end of the stabilizer link and remove your brake caliper and rotor. All are the simpler part of the job baring the set screw holding your rotor in place being rusted stuck (easy to strip). You will also have to un hook your ABS sensor (small flat screw driver, careful you don't break it).

This sounds much worse than it really was. I spent 3 – 4 hours on mine but that included more than one trip to multiple auto parts stores, talking to Bruce on the phone and a learning curve. I could do it today in under an hour.

Again, based on my recent experience:
Need
30mm 12pt (I had a large air compressor/impact wrench)
19mm 6pt and open end
18mm 6pt and open end
10mm? Hex
½ torque wrench (for caliper @ 22.5 lbs)
¾ torque wrench (for 18mm, 19mm and 30mm up to 150 lbs)
Flat head #1
Phillips #2
Dead blow hammer OR Hammer & scrap piece of wood